A wealthy city-state and a global business and logistics hub, Singapore is typically associated with forests of skyscrapers surrounded by beautiful, but heavily manicured, nature. Most divers in Southeast Asia plan their trips to Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines, countries that lie in the very heart of the Coral Triangle and offer crystal-clear waters and extraordinary marine biodiversity. Singapore is frequently overlooked, and even many local divers will prefer a weekend in Tioman (Malaysia) over a half-day trip to nearby domestic dive sites.
Global Logistics Hub
Diving opportunities in this island nation are indeed limited. Of the 64 islands belonging to Singapore, underwater exploration is permitted in only a few places. The main obstacle is the difficult conditions. Singapore is one of the busiest transshipment ports in the world – a gigantic, global gateway through which hundreds of massive container ships pass daily.
Dredging works in the shipping lanes, proximity to heavy industry, and ongoing land reclamation projects mean that underwater visibility rarely exceeds three metres, and very often drops to a metre or less. Singapore experiences predominantly mixed semi-diurnal tides, meaning the two daily high and low tides are of unequal heights. Furthermore, tidal waves from the South China Sea and the Strait of Malacca converge in Singapore’s waters, generating constant fast-moving currents.
Still, where there is water, there will always be diving enthusiasts. As such, Singapore has a small but thriving diving community. For those who are not afraid of limited visibility and some current, many hidden critters await underwater: crustaceans, cephalopods, and nudibranchs, and sometimes even sharks or sea turtles. Diving here is often endearingly described as a “treasure hunt”, as some days bring truly special finds.
Ghost Island
The most common destination for Singapore-based divers is Pulau Hantu, an island located just a half-hour boat ride from Pulau Ujong (aka mainland Singapore). In the Malay language, Pulau Hantu means “Ghost Island”, and legend has it that the spirits of ancient warriors who fought a duel to the death here haunt the island.
From a geological perspective, today’s Pulau Hantu is a fascinating hybrid of nature and human engineering. Originally, there were two small, natural coral islets surrounded by a shallow reef: Pulau Hantu Besar (Big) and Pulau Hantu Kecil (Small). In the 1970s, the Singapore government carried out a massive hydrotechnical project there. Using over 400,000 cubic metres of sand, the space separating the two islets was reclaimed to create artificial recreational lagoons. Stone breakwaters and concrete retaining walls were built, and the area of the islets was multiplied from just over two hectares to as many as 12 hectares.
Interestingly, right next to Pulau Hantu lies Pulau Bukom. This is another island that was dramatically enlarged through land reclamation. Today, it houses a massive, industrial refinery complex built by Shell. The view from a dive boat at Pulau Hantu is surreal: On one side, you have tropical greenery and palm trees, and just across the water, industrial infrastructure, refinery chimneys, and slowly passing tankers.
Although these works irreversibly destroyed the original shallow coral reef, nature proved to be extremely resilient. Over time, sponges and corals – and along with them other marine species – began to return to the local islets and colonise the artificial structures. It is right there, in the vicinity of the heavy oil industry, that today one can escape the city bustle and immerse oneself in the underwater world for half a day.
When Visibility Doesn’t Pamper You…
Diving in Singapore requires a completely different mindset than that which accompanies us in the crystal-clear waters of neighbouring countries. Here, you don’t look for wide vistas, deep blues, and spectacular coral formations. The key to success is patience, excellent buoyancy control, and a sharp eye.
Singapore diving is definitely a treat for macro lovers. With a bit of luck – and with the help of local guides, whose eyes are accustomed to the darkness prevailing even at 10 metres – we can find some of the slug species that made Anilao in the Philippines or Tulamben in Indonesia famous: those from the genera Costasiella, Doto, Hypselodoris, Elysia and Janolus. There are also various crustaceans and cephalopods. Many octopuses, squids, and cuttlefish hide during the day, but after sunset, they go hunting, so night dives here can be very exciting.
Sometimes it’s also possible to find larger animals, like a hawksbill sea turtle, bluespotted ribbontail rays, or small marbled sharks and bamboo sharks. Photographing them in low-visibility conditions remains a challenge, however, so local underwater photography enthusiasts focus mainly on tiny creatures.
For the persistent, the reward is discovering a beautiful underwater world, and those who dive here often and have the patience to stop for a few minutes (or longer) can also observe interesting behaviours: mating, egg-laying, feeding, or symbiosis between different species.
Underwater Singapore: Hit or Miss?
So, is it worth diving in Singapore? The answer is: yes and no. If you are planning a trip solely to dive in these waters, the poor visibility and reefs damaged in some areas might disappoint you. Singapore is not a competitor for the paradise coral gardens of neighbouring countries.
However, if you live here, are spending a few days for business, or planning a long layover on your way to Indonesia or the Philippines, and your passion is the macro world, Singapore may pleasantly surprise you. Instead of spending another day in an air-conditioned shopping mall or at Changi Airport, it’s worth packing your camera, getting on a boat from one of the local dive centres, and giving these waters a chance. The hidden underwater life here proves that fascinating macro treasures can be found in the most unexpected places.
At a Crossroads
Today, the future of Pulau Hantu stands at a critical crossroads. Singapore has announced plans to reclaim land around several nearby southern islands to merge them into a new “western island” designed to secure the country’s industrial, energy, and defence needs. To understand and mitigate the environmental impact of this massive project, the National Parks Board of Singapore will conduct an extensive mapping study of the coastal and marine habitats. Over the coming years, they will use high-resolution satellite imagery to survey coral reefs, seagrass meadows, and mangroves. This vital data will hopefully help find ways to build Singapore’s future with nature, rather than over it, preserving these precious underwater ecosystems for generations of divers to come.
Practical Information
- How to get there: The easiest way to get to Pulau Hantu is by booking a spot on one of several local dive boats that depart from the centrally located Marina at Keppel Bay or the slightly more distant Republic of Singapore Yacht Club. The journey takes about 30–45 minutes. The island is uninhabited; there are only toilets and picnic shelters. Operators provide water and small snacks, as well as weights and filled tanks. Equipment rental is also available.
- When to go: You can dive all year round, but the best conditions (and slightly better visibility) usually prevail from March to During the southwest monsoon (June–September) and the northeast monsoon (December–February), swells and currents can be significantly stronger, which can also negatively affect visibility.
- Recommended camera gear: Definitely a camera with a macro lens. Lighting will be key – preferably a strobe with a snoot, which will allow you to light the main subject of the photo selectively and eliminate the problem of backscatter. A wet dioptre will also be useful for capturing the smallest specimens.
- Who to dive with: Cuddlefish Divers (cuddlefishdivers.com, +65 8292 6684) is a reputable operator with their own comfortable boat, operating from Marina at Keppel Bay.
