CUSTODIANS OF TUBBATAHA

Text by Anna Oposa, images by Jon Cabiles, TMO

A salute to a small group of ocean defenders who look after the Philippines’ largest marine protected area.

At 97,030 hectares, Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park is the largest no-take marine protected area in the Philippines. It is found in the Sulu Sea, over 150 kilometres from Puerto Princesa (capital of Palawan) and 130 kilometres from Cagayancillo. It is also the country’s most abundant and biodiverse, with over 700 species of fish, 361 species of corals, 28 species of sharks, and more than 100 species of birds.

Guarding this marine and bird sanctuary is no easy feat. This task falls on several organisations and government agencies, with the Tubbataha Management Office (TMO) at the forefront. Leading the pack are the Park Area Superintendent, Angelique Songco, and the marine park rangers.

Terms of Reef-erence

To know Tubbataha is to be in awe of its marine park rangers. This group of defenders was established through a Presidential Task Force in the mid-1990s and formalised through the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park Act of 2009. Members are composed of the Philippine Navy, Philippine Coast Guard, the Cagayancillo Local Government, and the TMO. They follow guidelines and training programmes developed by the TMO and WWF-Philippines.

More Than Just Law Enforcers

One of the main responsibilities of the marine park rangers is law enforcement. They watch out for any illegal activities and apprehend fishers and poachers if needed. But they are more than law enforcers. They are researchers who collect data on fish, corals, and birds. They are mechanics and construction workers who must do boat and home repairs, and install and maintain mooring buoys. They collect garbage, picking up marine debris underwater and on the surface, and they are also salespeople and cashiers, selling T-shirts and other merchandise to divers who have the chance to visit the ranger station.

Segundo Conales measuring the coral growth

The Ranger Station

The rangers are on two-month rotations in this isolated area. Their home is called the ranger station, which is also the name of the dive site surrounding the sandbar. The current ranger station is made of concrete and reinforced with polystyrene, and a new one is being built on the same sandbar.

The rangers are equipped with two patrol boats, a radar, radio, an automatic identification system (AIS) and GPS units. For entertainment, they have a volleyball net, a basketball hoop, and a karaoke machine (a staple in the Philippines). Last year, a Starlink device was donated by Blacklist International, enabling them to finally have Internet! Part of the sacrifice they make as rangers is missing milestones of family and friends, such as birthdays and graduations, and being able to communicate with their loved ones makes being away just a little easier.

The composite team of marine park rangers pose in front of their 24-year-old ranger station

Threats and Successes

Any threat to Tubbataha becomes part of the park rangers’ duty, from illegal fishing to invasive species. In 2024, two of the biggest threats they face are coral bleaching and (don’t laugh) bird poop. Around the ranger station, hard corals are turning white, which could affect the fish and other species residing in the reefs. Thousands of birds have begun staying at the ranger station, with excessive bird droppings covering the roof and patrol boats. Its effect is no laughing matter: Bird poop can carry diseases and cleaning it up takes a lot of time and effort.

The efforts, sacrifice, and dedication of Tubbataha’s marine park rangers have not gone unnoticed. Last year, the Tubbataha rangers, represented by the four TMO rangers, Segundo Conales Jr, Noel Bundal, Jeffrey David, and Cresencio Caranay Jr, received the International Ranger Award from the International Union for the Conservation of Nature. The award came with a cash prize of USD10,000 to support their conservation efforts.

The marine park rangers’ existence is a testament to the Filipino value of bayanihan, which loosely translates to “a spirit of communal unity and cooperation”. It is their dedication and hard work that Tubbataha is teeming with marine life and continues to attract divers from all over the world.

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Asian Diver No. 168