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CENOTES OF YUCATAN

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Sunlight bouncing off the entrance walls of Cenote Tajma Ha

THE NATURAL WONDER OF MEXICO

The famous cenotes of Yucatán in Mexico are the entrances to the largest underwater cave systems in the world. There are at least 6,000 cenotes in the Yucatán and these mystical sinkholes have captivated divers from around the globe.

Warning sign at Cenote Tajma Ha: The slight blur in the image is because we are at the halocline layer

I’ve had the incredible opportunity to dive and explore the cenotes of Yucatán’s cave systems and with every dive, I am reminded why I find them so enthralling. Exploring the cenotes allows me to escape the ordinary, to immerse myself in a world of wonder, and to be humbled by the magnificence of Nature.

A VISUAL FEAST

These crystal-clear, freshwater sinkholes are nestled within lush greenery, creating a picturesque backdrop for every dive. As I descend into the depths, the sunlight penetrates the water, casting mesmerising rays that dance on the cave walls. The vibrant hues and intricate speleothem formations – accumulations of mineral deposits over time – create a surreal underwater landscape and a visual feast that leaves me in awe every time. One cannot help but be spellbound by the sheer beauty of the cenotes.

PEACEFUL ESCAPE

Unlike the bustling world above the surface, the cenotes are a peaceful escape into a world untouched by time, as all external noises fade away, replaced by the gentle lapping of water and the sound of my own breath. It is a meditative experience, allowing me to embrace the solitude and find a sense of calm that rejuvenates my spirit.

DELICATE ECOSYSTEMS

The cenotes are also home to unique and delicate ecosystems. As I descend into the cenotes, the occasional freshwater turtle and schools of curious fish like guppies and mollies often greet me. In the dark cave passages, blind catfish, blind cave eels, and marine crustaceans like shrimp and isopods can be seen. In some cenotes, even crocodiles are found. Deeper in the caves, I often see delicate stalactites and stalagmites adorned with ancient fossils. Every cave is its own wonder, and some stalactites and stalagmite formations are amazingly beautiful. In some cave passages, I see evidence of previous human habitation, like ancient fireplaces and animal bones, even human remains.

WATER VISIBILITY

In the Yucatán cenotes, the fresh water sits above salt water that seeps in from the ocean. Where the waters meet is a mixing zone called a halocline, an interesting phenomenon where visibility is slightly limited. Otherwise, cenote water is usually very clear, as the water comes from rain water filtering slowly through the ground, and therefore contains very little suspended particulate matter. Sometimes in cenotes with heavy vegetation, heavy rains can cause tannic runoff from land into the water causing the water to be tea-coloured, although visibility remains clear.

Sometimes the cave entrance from the cenote is just a small passage

GATEWAY TO THE UNDERWORLD

The cenotes hold profound historical and cultural significance for the Mayan civilisation. These natural formations were considered sacred by the ancient Mayans, who believed they were gateways to the underworld. So, diving the cenotes is not only an exploration of the natural world, but also an immersion into a rich tapestry of history and culture.

LICENCE TO DIVE

To dive the cenotes, divers must show proof of cave diving certification from a recognised technical dive training organisation. TDI, IANTD and GUE are some of the organisations that provide basic and advanced cave training in Yucatán. Cave diving is challenging and not for the faint-hearted. The training is demanding and strenuous. I completed both my GUE Cave 1 and Cave 2 certifications with Zero Gravity Dive Center, a Global Underwater Explorers dive center and dive training provider based in Puerto Aventuras, south of Playa del Carmen on the Yucatán’s east coast. My choice for GUE cave training was an easy decision as I’m already a GUE-trained diver, holding a GUE Technical 2 dive certification.

THRILL OF THE UNKNOWN

Unlike open-water diving, cave diving involves exploring intricate and complex cave systems, sometimes navigating through narrow passages and restrictions. The thrill of venturing into the unknown, surrounded by total darkness, and the anticipation of what lies ahead, is an adrenaline rush unlike any other. Each dive presents its own challenges and rewards, testing my skills as a diver and often pushing the boundaries of my comfort zone. It is a constant reminder that there is always more to discover, both in the world around us and within ourselves.

Stalagmites in Cenote
Nohoch Nah Chich

AN EMOTIONAL AND SPIRITUAL CONNECTION

Diving the cenotes of the Yucatán is an experience that combines natural beauty, tranquility, biodiversity, history, culture, and adventure into one remarkable journey. The allure of these mystical sinkholes lies not only in their physical grandeur but also in the emotional and spiritual connection they foster with their divers. It is an experience that holds a special place in my heart as I continue to unravel the mysteries of the cenotes, one dive at a time.

Text and Images by BK Chin

 

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Asian Diver No. 165

Sojourns in Semporna

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Semporna is a sleepy, coastal town in the Tawau division of Sabah in East Malaysia, but it is also the gateway to some of the best diving in the world.

Culture and History

The town is shaped by its diverse population of indigenous communities and immigrants. The Bajau Laut, more commonly known as sea gypsies, have a strong presence in Semporna. They and other indigenous communities like the Suluk and Sama-Bajau people who have settled around Semporna for centuries have very close ties to the sea. Their distinctive language, traditions, cuisine and crafts all centre around the water. When Sabah was colonised by various European powers, the area attracted immigrants from various countries like the Philippines, Indonesia and China. As these communities settled in Semporna, they contributed to the town’s cultural diversity, adding their own customs, language and food to the local fabric. The growth of tourism and its proximity to world-famous dive destinations brought economic opportunities and widened cultural exchanges.

Within the Coral Triangle

The surrounding islands of Semporna lie within the Coral Triangle, considered the epicentre of marine biodiversity in the world. Scores of divers flock to the region for its pristine waters, diverse marine life and stunning underwater landscapes.

A turtle investigates the reef as bigeye trevally school overhead.

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Rebel with a Cause – In conversation with Harry Chan

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Ghost nets discarded by fishermen cause widespread damage to coral reefs

Self-proclaimed “ghost net hunter”, Harry Chan has spent more than a decade hauling abandoned fishing nets out of the ocean. This retired septuagenarian is on a mission to clean up not just Hong Kong’s waters, but he has also been to the Philippines, Malaysia and Brunei to spread awareness about the impacts of these “silent killers”.

 

JUMP-STARTING THE MISSION

It all started when he went to a beach clean-up with his friend in Hong Kong. He went into the water along the coastline and found just as much trash, if not more. Apart from the usual trash, he pulled out discarded fishing nets that were entangled on the rocks and corals. When he started diving, he found even more of these “ghost nets”, which also snagged marine life. Saddened but also emboldened by this, he took it on himself to make the difference.

Scuba divers remove a huge ghost net tangled over a large area of a tropical coral reef.

GHOST NET MAGNET

Now, he hardly does much recreation diving. He says he seems to have a knack for finding these ghost nets, or ghost gear– abandoned or lost fishing equipment that float through the ocean, trapping wildlife, snagging on boats and even threatening divers. He’s had some close calls too getting himself entangled, and needing the help of his dive buddies to free him.

EVERYONE NEEDS TO KNOW

Although he has a small team of volunteers who go out with him to clean Hong Kong’s waters, he doesn’t want to be affiliated with any group or organisation. He will work with anyone willing to help him spread the word. That way, he can reach out to more people around the region and create a bigger awareness of this seemingly innocuous situation.

BIGGER IMPACTS THAN WE REALISE

Nature conservationists and activists campaign against ghost nets harming marine life and destroying the environment, but the larger impacts are really about safety and the enormous economic considerations that really affect the world as a whole. Abandoned nets carried by the currents cast away on beaches where people and their pets get entangled or injured by what the nets bring in with them. In addition, when drifting ghost nets get caught in cargo ships’ propellers, for example, it literally halts the entire supply line that costs billions of dollars. These giants have to be towed back to port where it will take time, and even more money, to remove the offending nets that carry other debris to further damage the ships.

Floating ghost nets cause bigger problems than we realise.

GOVERNMENT INTERVENTION REQUIRED

Harry believes tackling the problems from the root could positively turn things around – this would protect the environment, ensure human and animal safety, and keep the world running. As ghost nets are often associated with illegal fishing, a strong collaboration between governments, corporations, marine police and conservation bodies have to be forged, so that resources, data and means can be shared to actively and responsibly enforce regulations. Harry hopes improved government policies will pay more attention to this and help remove the root cause for future generations.

CRAZY BUT PASSIONATE

This seems like a thankless task, but Harry is motivated to keep diving as long as there are ghost nets in the ocean, and meeting like-minded people who will go on this quest with him. Mind you, he does all this on his own dime, but he says it is well worth it when the world, especially children, can benefit from this.

 

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SCUBAPRO’s Modular Fin System

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UW360
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Simplifying the logistics of diving with a clever solution

It’s a known fact among scuba divers that different fins are needed for different diving conditions. The SCUBAPRO Modular Fin System eliminates this need by having two foot sections and different fin blades that can be switched around easily, suitable for use on rocky shores, tropical waters and cold water diving.

They now have TWO versions of this award-winning innovation for performance, construction, fit and versatility – the Seawing Supernova and the S-Tek.

 

Seawing Supernova

 

 

 

 

 

 

From left: The Seawing Supernova  full-foot pocket, open-heel pocket and fin blade are inter-changeable

Innovative Design

The Seawing Supernova’s innovative two-piece design, with blade and foot pocket molded separately, makes transport easy, and with the optional full foot pocket the fin can be modified to handle any warm-water dive scenario.

Angle of Attack

The flexible, auto-adjust central panel fine-tunes the angle of attack according to the strength of kick by counter-pivoting, providing a milder angle of attack for comfort when kicking gently, and a more aggressive angle of attack when kicking at full strength.

Increased Control and Maneuverability

When it comes to frog and alternate kicks, the new twin-tip winglets increase control, power and markedly improve maneuverability. The Supernova is the go-to fin for avid recreational and professional divers seeking maximum speed, power and kicking control in all diving conditions.

Added features:

  • Blade and foot pockets are molded separately with a durable Socket-Lock Connecting System that allows for easy assembly and disassembly.
  • The entire system is made from premium Monprene for long-lasting durability.
  • Sold as an open-heel set. Full-foot pocket sold separately.
  • Available in FIVE sizes (XS, S, M, L, XL) and TWO colours (black or white)
  • Compatible with Scuba Skegs – to minimise side slip and maximise stability when finning and manoeuvring underwater.
  • The MFS Multi-tool, included with every pair, is all you need to assemble or disassemble your Supernovas. It is molded in reinforced plastic, blue in colour for visibility, holds 4 spare MFS lock plates and the eyelet can be used with a key ring or attached to a lanyard or boat bag.
The Seawing Supernova Fins come with a bag and the MFS Multi-tool

 

S-Tek Fins

Front view
Back view

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The S-Tek fins pre-angled 30-degree blade

Purpose-Built, Next-Gen Technical Diving

This new addition to SCUBAPRO’s S-Tek line of technical diving equipment is a purpose-built, next-gen technical diving fin that provides maximum power when you need it. Constructed from durable Monprene and designed with an ultra-streamlined profile, the 30° pre-angled blade requires less deflection to achieve an efficient kick, allowing for a stiffer blade without increasing drag, resulting in less leg cramping and ankle strain and not compromising on manoeuvrability and kick performance.

Added features:

  •  The Hydra-Loop ramped and reinforced leading edge improves lateral rigidity for alternate kicks and creates a hydrofoil profile for better thrust.
  • The Open-heel foot pocket has a heavy-duty bungee strap that allows for micro adjustments to accommodate various boot types.
  • The blade is compatible with Seawing Supernova foot pockets.
  • Users can purchase the blade only, and it comes in TWO sizes – Midi and Maxi. The set comprises the MFS Multi-tool, a set of lock plates, a Stainless Steel Weight System and SCUBAPRO boat bag.
  • The complete fin is available only in black, but comes in FIVE sizes – XS, S, M with Midi blades, and L,XL with Maxi blades. The set includes  the MFS Multi-tool, 2 sets of lock plates, a Stainless Steel Weight System and a SCUBAPRO boat bag.
  • The Removable Stainless Steel Weight System gives the user a choice between having a positively-, neutrally- and negatively-buoyant fin.
The S-Tek Fin blade with Removable Stainless Steel Weight System

 

For more information, visit www.scubapro.com

DOs and DON’Ts – Some Sound Advice

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UW360
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Dive by the mantra, take only pictures, leave only bubbles!

DO Take the trash away.

Collect any trash or plastic. you find in the ocean and dispose of it properly. Check to make sure no living critters have already made their homes in it!

 

DO Keep hands and fins off the reefs! 

Keep tuning your skills and become an excellent diver so you are always in control of your buoyancy, and steer clear of the reefs.

 

DO Protect yourself and the reefs

It’s vital that you protect yourself against harmful UV rays, but make sure you use a sunscreen formula that is reef-safe.

 

DO Pledge to be an Ocean Citizen

Take a stand and make a difference – download the app and pledge to be an Ocean Citizen – and spread the word!

 

DO Share your beautiful stories of the sea

Become a voice for the ocean, and inspire others to become advocates as well.

 

DO Always be prepared

Women have to deal with those times of the month, so make sure you pack enough supplies. Even though it may not be your time, you could be a lifesaver for a fellow female diver.

 

DON’T Add to the piling waste!

Let’s all be mindful about how single-use plastic is adding to marine pollution and avoid it at all costs!

 

DON’T Take anything from the ocean!

It’s really tempting when you spot a beautiful shell or piece of coral, but don’t do it! Leave them be – they will make new homes for other critters.

 

DON’T Be a Diva

Women divers may add the grace and flair to scuba diving, but don’t behave like a diva! Always be considerate of others and become a role model instead.

 

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SABAH TO HOST ADEX OCEAN PARTNERSHIP SUMMIT 2023, 18 – 20 August, Sabah International Convention Centre (SICC)

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UW360
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Organized in partnership with the Sabah Tourism Board, Sabah will play host to the ADEX Ocean Partnership Summit 2023, a succession to the Asian Dive Expo (ADEX) that took place in Singapore at the Sands Expo and Convention Centre, 31 March to 2 April, 2023.

ADEX Sabah Ocean Partnership Summit 2023 is built on the UNITED NATIONS proclamation for the Year 2021-2030 the “DECADE OF OCEAN SCIENCE FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT” and will be held from the 18-20 August 2023 at the Sabah International Convention Centre (SICC), Sabah, Malaysia.

This year’s summit will feature global experts and trailblazers from across the globe who will discuss and explore diving disciplines, ocean conservation and sustainability issues, and at the same time offer opportunities to connect, network with industry peers and the wider hospitality, conservation and education arenas.

This will be an excellent platform for leveraging knowledge and expertise, becoming an agent for change towards conservation and education, fostering partnerships for a sustainable future, and positioning your brand that will contribute to and enhance the development of a sustainable blue economy.

In addition, SICC will become a haven for mermaid enthusiasts from around the globe. The ADEX Sabah Mermaid Competition 2023 will offer an unparalleled opportunity for mermaids to showcase their talent and grace, judged LIVE by esteemed freediving representatives and fellow mermaids.

Sabah Assistant Minister of Tourism, Culture, and Environment cum Chairman of Sabah Tourism Board, Datuk Joniston Bangkuai, was present at the opening of ADEX 2023 in Singapore, and launched the inaugural ADEX Sabah Ocean Partnership Summit 2023.

“We look forward to welcoming the global ocean community, renowned speakers, professional diving fraternities and attendees, in general, to share ideas and knowledge on the best practice adaptations for the ocean,” said Joniston.

 

For more information, please check www.adex.asia

GHOST NET HUNTERS – THE NEW OCEAN HERO at ADEX Sabah Ocean Partnership Summit 2023

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UW360
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In conjunction with the ADEX SABAH OCEAN PARTNERSHIP SUMMIT 2023, a new type of ocean hero will emerge to actively seek and remove discarded, lost and abandoned fishing nets in the water.

On 20 August 2023, ADEX Ambassador for Ghost Net Hunters, HIDY YU, and Guinness World Record Holder and swimmer, BEN LECOMTE, will spend 23 hours in the waters around the Sabah International Convention Centre (SICC) collecting ghost nets with specialised equipment so they can be removed without causing further damage to the marine ecosystem. Once the nets are recovered, they will be properly disposed of, recycled or repurposed.

Hidy, Ben and their dedicated team of scuba divers, volunteers and environmental organisations will also raise awareness on the environmental impacts of ghost nets, and advocate for sustainable fishing practices through educational campaigns and support initiatives that promote recycling and responsible waste management.

 

HIDY YU

Hong Kong

In the 16 years she has been diving, Hidy has travelled extensively as an underwater model for various underwater advertisements, diving magazines, travel episodes and TV shows. She also premiered in a freediving film with sharks in the Caribbean to promote shark conservation. The Rising Star award in ADEX Beijing Ocean Week in 2018, and NAUl Outstanding Service Award in 2021 are the most notable among her many accolades. Advocating for ocean conservation, she launched a charter with Hong Kong’s Environmental Protection Department on micro-plastic beads in 2022. From 2016 to 2019, she was the mermaid ambassador at ADEX Singapore and was honoured as the  ADEX Ocean Ambassador at ADEX Ocean Mission 2023.

 

BEN LECOMTE

USA and France

Ben is a history maker, Guinness World record holder, author, speaker and an ocean advocate. In 1998, he was the first human to cross the Atlantic Ocean in a drift swim. Following that incredible feat a decade later, he embarked on a new world record expedition, swimming the Pacific Ocean through the Great Pacific Garbage Patch!

Ben uses his expeditions as a platform to collect valuable scientific data and bring

attention to ocean conservation. His advocacy was featured in Ocean Emergency: Currents of Hope, a documentary narrated by Prince Albert II of Monaco, and a full length film, The Swim, focused on his Pacific Ocean endeavour. Ben made it his passion to become a voice for the ocean for his children, and future generations.

 

 

For more information, please e-mail ellfrance@uw360.asia and check out www.adex.asia.

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